The care and feeding of great hair extensions

You’ve just spent a small fortune getting those luscious locks you’ve always wanted. Your hair finally looks amazing, but how will you keep it that way? Remember, this is not your hair, it is at least 4 years old when it was cut from another’s head, and you have no idea what they did with it before you purchased it. Also, in order for the hair to be fit for consumption, it must be sterilized, colored, and in some cases permed to give it that natural wave…

You probably would not consider doing all that chemical service to your own hair, so keep this in mind as you care for that beautiful hair you just bought with your weekly paycheck.

The number one goal in keeping hair extensions healthy is to keep the hair moisturized. This means adding a layer of oil or conditioner to help keep the water in the hair from disappearing. Just like your skin, hair that is not protected will dry out, and when it does, it becomes brittle and will not hold style. So do not over shampoo, daily shampooing is not necessary. If anything, condition the hair daily with conditioner only. The conditioner will slide off any obnoxious smells and dirt that has attached itself to your hair. My recommendation is that you use a balsam or oil based conditioner. In fact, one of the best conditioners I have found for extension hair is actually sold to be used on my HORSE! The manes and tails of horses need constant “sealing” to retain moisture or they become wiry and unmanageable. I love to use “Show Sheen” on my horse and my extensions. Both become manageable and silky with continued use.

I do not care what any one tells you, chemically altering hair extensions is crazy. The hair has been already dyed with textile dyes, and these dyes can interact with normal hair dyes and create havoc in the hair shaft. If any coloring is needed use only a glaze, with no more than 10 volume peroxide. This means NO lightening processes, only toning and mild darkening are acceptable and only done by a professional with experience in dying wigs and hair pieces. This is not a job for a novice!

The owner of the last salon I worked in always said “Hair is hair…” and it made me want to scream! This is absolutely wrong. Even the best hair is a fragile substance that should be carefully manipulated and treated as if it were the finest crystal, easily broken, but beautiful when cared for properly.  Do not brush the hair roughly, apply excessive heat, or tie it tight to the head or you are asking for trouble. Do not swim, avoid any and all activities that may entangle the hair. If you are an enthusiast exerciser, tie the hair gently before you begin. Use satin pillow cases, and for God’s sake, stay on top during sex! Signing off now…enjoy your hair!

Christine Hanson

www.chrisforhair.com

There comes a time when the work I do is more important than the money I make

As a non surgical hair replacement specialist I see clients who are experiencing hair loss for a variety of reasons. One catagory everyone knows about is chemo therapy. However not all patients receiving chemo therapy lose all their hair. The hair may just become thin and lifeless but not drop out. So the client may see us thinking they only need a hair addition, not a wig. This is a special circumstance that requires us to use good judgement and good business ethics.

Clients who are on chemo therapy should never consider having any hairpiece bonded to their head. During chemo therapy the skin, which is our protective barrior, is compromised and tiny breaks in the skin can allow infection to enter the body. All bonding processes allow bacteria to grow under the bonded area. In a healthy person this is not a problem as long as the client has the bonded piece removed and the scalp thoroughly cleaned every 4 weeks. However clients who are on chemo can develop infections very quickly and these infections can become life threatening.

The American Cancer Society offers a program called Look Good, Feel Better, for which I was a long time volunteer. During the time I was presenting for this program we were taught that patients on chemo therapy should not have any service that causes irritation to the skin. This includes dying the hair, permanent waves, manicures and pedicures that cut cuticle tissue, tattoing the skin. In fact the program recommends that patients refrain from using cosmetics and skin preparations that contain alcohol and fragrance.

For a client that is on chemotherapy and does not lose their hair my first suggestion would still be a wig, but if that client does not want to wear a wig, I would test any attachment method in a small area before using it on the entire head. Even clients that do not lose hair may have sensitive skin and therefore not be a candidate for extensions or hair pieces. If there is sensitivity, it may be necessary to tell the client that hats and headscarves are the only safe alternative.

It may not make me any money, but the safety of my clients must come before profits for my business. Knowing when to pass on giving someone new hair is just as important as knowing which products are safe and will look amazing on a client.

http://www.chrisforhair.com/

Safety first with any hair additions

A simple search of the Internet will show you that extensions are hot and there is a multitude of application techniques that one might consider. However, having been in the hair addition business for over 20 years I feel it is important for the public to realize that while hair additions are a great solution for many clients, they are NOT always safe.
Every company looking for business states that their hair extensions and additions are safe and do not cause hair loss, and to me this is false advertising. In fact, every system, including clip in hair extensions, can cause permanent hair loss if the wearer is not educated about what to look for as a sign that the hair addition is causing problems.

Last week I overheard a client in another stylist's chair tell the stylist that after her last application her hair hurt for two weeks. DANGER!! Hair additions that hurt are telling you "Get this stuff out of my hair! Pain is always a warning that something is wrong and should be addressed ASAP. Sometimes a simple adjustment will alleviate the pain and the problem is solved, but if it is allowed to continue the result can be permanent hair loss. In fact, even if the hair loss is not permanent it takes a long time for the hair to recover and grow in again.

Another warning that something is not right is tangling. It has become much more difficult to find really good hair at a price the average consumer can afford. So many companies have resorted to using poor quality hair and coating it with silicone to make it look healthy. After just a few washings the silicone disappears and the hair starts to tangle. If your hair addition is tangling, or if the hair has curl when wet but looks frizzy as it dries, the hair is overprocessed and should be removed. Unfortunately I watched the same stylist perm a "unit" for her client and processed the perm twice as long as recommended by the perm manufacturer. The piece was of course fried, but the stylist actually bonded it to the head of the client, who by the way was on chemo therapy and never should have anything bonded to her head. I lost sleep thinking about what might happen to the clients scalp after seeing this.

Healthy hair has a luster that can't be duplicated with topical conditioners. Almost all hair additions have been processed in some way and this weakens the hair. While the professional stylist can do minor color change, it is not safe to just dye or perm the hair as if it were growing from the head of the person. So if your stylist says he or she can change curl or color be very careful. This is a warning that the stylist does not care if the product works and is safe for the consumer.

I love working with hair additions, we can make changes that were never before possible, but as professional stylists it is our responsibility to ensure that the methods and products we use are of the highest quality. We also must educate clients and not make claims that are not true. We must follow up to see that nothing is happening that may result in hair loss. And we must learn to say no when necessary and think about our clients hair, and not only our pocketbook.

http://www.chrisforhair.com/

It is not all bad....

Lately my posts have had a pretty negative tone. This is probably due to the fact that I have witnessed some pretty negative things happen to unsuspecting clients that were paying big money to have their hair ripped from their head, insuring the establishments that they would have returning patrons.

Fortunately there is another side of everything and as I did my own hair this morning I thanked God that what I did not receive genetically I could aquire through my own products and ingenuity. I am certain that the motivating factor that got me through school was the fact that I was born with "bad" hair. It is fine, straight as a board and thin, and without lots of work on a daily basis it will do nothing but lay on my head like feathers.

Most of my clients think I have great hair, but little do they know I have much less hair than most of them have. Thankfully for people like me, there are now options that enable us to have easy to manage, good looking hair.

Over the years I have worn wigs, various extensions, a hair integration piece, and other hair additions and I must say there are advantages and disadvantages to all, just like real hair! Right now I am in a wig for several reasons. First, it is so much easier than styling my own hair and it always looks the same. Also, because of a chronic condition I recently lost hair down to the scalp on top and along the right side of my head, and the wig covers these nicely. The hair IS growing back now but will take some time to get complete coverage. And finally, I am wanting my hair to grow longer and the wig makes it possible to leave this fragile hair alone for a while and just grow.

Once the winter is over, and I am outside most of the days, I know the wig will be too hot for my post menopausal body, so I will go back to wearing my extensions or possibly a hair piece that lets me look like I have a ponytail. I love choices but hate change, so time will tell how much different I look this summer.

Wearing hair that is not my own teaches me more about what clients feel than any classroom instruction I have ever had. For example, I never knew how easily hair follicles can be damaged by clip in hair until mine started breaking off at the roots in the 1990's. At the time I thought clip in extensions were the answer to my hair issues and started making them for my clients. Thankfully my timing was off, and people were not in the mood for false hair, so I only sold a limited number of sets. I still like clip ins for occasional use, but caution clients not to wear them too often and to move the clips frequently.

Another method used by many hair replacement studios is weaving wefted hair into tracks make by braiding the existing hair into tracks. Again experience has taught me that this is not safe and any time the hair is pulled tightly off base it can fall out.

I do believe hair wefts can be sewn into hair, but without the tracks used by many African Americans. My own clients say they are comfortable and I have seen no evidence of hair loss to date. If I can develop the coordination to do the sewing on my own hair I may use this method myself this summer. I think I can, I think I can, I think I can...

Skin wefts and bonding I do like IF the client is patient enough to let the glue start to release naturally. Trying to get glue and tape out of hair too soon causes some hair loss. This type of service is wonderful for the right client.

The bottom line is that if you feel you need additional hair, by all means talk to someone who knows and has worked extensively with hair additions, be sure to listen and follow instructions to keep your own hair safe. It is a big field out there today and many are getting into it just because it can be lucrative. That doesn't assure you that the methods they use are safe. Experience is the best teacher!

http://www.chrisforhair.com/

So, you think you want long, flowing hair??

 A simple search on the Internet will show you that adding hair is becoming just about as common as getting color or a cut. Yes, it is somewhat expensive, but everyone wants Kim Kardashian's hair and they will charge their future away to get it. So of course there are those who are willing to do your extensions for less money out of their home, car, whatever...

I have seen more than a few of these jobs lately, and it truly frightens me to know that when someone without the critical thinking skills or the training and know how starts installing extensions, the end result can be PERMANENT hair loss. That means it is never going to grow back, you will no longer need a hair dresser because you will be wearing wigs for the rest of your life! (And believe me, wigs are not comfortable in 90 degree heat!)

The African American community, (who have been adding hair forever)  teaches us that tracking hair is not safe. Many are now bald, or have bald spots on their head. This is because any time the hair is held tightly off base it can fall out. Even tight pony tails left too long will cause hair loss. Statistics say 75% of African American women who have used hair weaves have permanent hair loss. The same will be true with caucasion clients who choose to find someone cheap, then neglect the care instructions that should accompany every hair addition.

If you should decide you want hair extensions, carefully interview the professional who will be doing the work, ask to see samples of the hair and the attachment method, keep your follow up appointments, and use the recommended products. Your hair will thank you.

http://www.chrisforhair.com/

Why African American Women are losing their hair

The last 7 months have been a real eye opener for me. I am sad to say that what I have learned is that African American women are experiencing hair loss at an alarming rate and most of this is caused by hair weaves and other hair replacement options used to give them "good hair."

African hair is very fragile as it is not nourished with as much natural oil as hair from other races. Therefore the hair must be nourished externally with products made especially for this hair type.

The chemicals used in straightening hair are some of the most toxic chemicals in the beauty industry and if they are used, they must be used with great care. One cannot continue to use relaxers over and over with extreme damage to both the hair and the scalp. Applying relaxers only to the new growth and only for the minimum time are critical to protecting fragile African hair. The chemical base of relaxers is lye, and lye causes serious burns to human tissue. Once the scalp has been burned, hair will not grow from the follicles.

It is so sad to me that an entire industry has been cultivated, telling African American women that they have bad hair so it must be changed in such a way that ultimately will result in no hair at all. If your provider tells you you have alopecia, they may be correct, however the alopecia African American women suffer from is traction alopecia and scarring alopecia, not the autoimmune condition.

http://www.chrisforhair.com/

Is your hair replacement specialist ripping off more than your pocketbook?

Non surgical hair replacement is a good option for those who are not candidates for transplants, however one must be just as careful when choosing a provider as one would be with choosing a surgeon.

If you are considering adding hair through non surgical methods you must thoroughly investigate the provider before you commit. This is because many "hair loss specialists" are great sales people who's main objective is to get you to buy, but could care less if the product is appropriate for your situation or even safe for you to use. Just because the local newspaper has published articles about the provider it does not mean that the business has the integrity to protect you and your existing hair.

Many products used in the hair replacement business can actually cause permanent hair loss, and should only be used in limited circumstances. There are products out that are very safe, inexpensive and look exceedingly natural, and you must be able to trust that your provider will offer them to you as an option.

So, how do you know if your provider can be trusted? First, I say, trust your first instinct, if the provider is aggressive be wary. If they act as if they are your best friend even before you have formed a relationship, be wary. If they go overboard in telling you how beautiful you look in your new hair, be wary. If their hair looks phony, be wary.

Successful and safe hair replacement requires you to build a relationship with your provider and this takes time. A good provider will not sell you the most expensive option first, they will take the time necessary to get to know you and your lifestyle, help you to choose a product that is appropriate, one that you are not totally dependant upon them to service, and one that is of high quality so it will last as long as possible.

Look around at the salon, will you have the privacy you need or will other people always be watching as you expose your self? Is the salon reasonably peaceful or chaotic? Are the products on display ones that you might enjoy wearing?

Finally, try to remember that a free consultation is just that. Go home, think about your needs and desires and ask yourself if the provider really seemed to be listening or just steering you into what they wanted you to buy? Clients have the right to say no, to check out other options, and to take time in making decisions.

http://www.chrisforhair.com/